After perusing your partner's Pinterest boards and asking friends and family for input, you've finally pegged the perfect engagement ring design for your future spouse. Or, perhaps you two tag-teamed and found an ideal jewel together. Whichever route you took to get there, once it's time to buy the diamond of your dreams, your next step is to conquer the famed engagement ring 4Cs and determine how you can manipulate each component to get the most bling for your buck.
But what, exactly, are "the 4Cs"? This diamond terminology refers to the color, clarity, carat weight, and cut of a diamond, all of which make up a grading system that determines the quality and price of a stone. According to gemologist and jeweler Andrew Mills, it's vital to also understand that the 4Cs are a guideline, not a scale that determines whether a diamond is "good" or "bad." "The first thing to keep in mind when reading about the 4Cs is that there is no right answer, and a lot of the information out there can be pretty misleading on what is required in purchasing a diamond," he explains. "What really matters is what you think of the diamond and its natural appearance."
Meet the Expert
- Andrew Mills is a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) graduate gemologist and founder of Andrew & Earth Designs.
- Sarah Ortega is the founder ofSarah O. Jewelry, a Denver-based jewelry shop selling bridal and fine jewelry.
To make your diamond hunting process loads easier, we broke down the specifics of the engagement ring 4Cs in no particular order, along with helpful tips on how to make the most of each component financially.
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The Importance of the 4Cs
Given the fact that the 4Cs should be used as a guideline rather than a way to rate a stone, you may be wondering if following this diamond grading system is truly important. According to jeweler Sarah Ortega, the 4Cs do matter and are helpful to know when shopping for an engagement ring.
"The 4Cs are a great place to start when looking for your engagement ring. Choosing one or two of these elements as your priority will help you find your perfect stone and understand your budget," she shares. "For example, if you’re looking to prioritize color and clarity because you love the look of a 'flawless' diamond, then you may opt for a smaller carat size. On the other hand, if you want a large carat size, color and clarity may not be as high on your list. For some, all 4Cs are important for consideration, and that’s certainly doable as well."
That being said, the idea that a diamond has to be "perfect" across all 4Cs is a misconception—there is no "correct" set of diamond specs. Assessing the 4Cs for your engagement ring is essentially a matter of personal preferences, and truly depends on what you want for your particular sparkler. Because even if a diamond hits the top of every scale and, naturally, costs the most, that doesn't necessarily make it any more beautiful than a more affordable stone. "Although the 4Cs are a great reference point when diamond shopping, nothing compares to seeing the diamond for yourself and finding out what you like," adds Ortega.
If you’re looking to prioritize color and clarity because you love the look of a 'flawless' diamond, then you may opt for a smaller carat size. If you want a large carat size, color and clarity may not be as high on your list.
A Breakdown of the 4Cs
Ready to dive into the specifics of each 4C? Below, we're sharing everything you need to know about the cut, color, clarity, and carat of a diamond.
Cut
Cut is the only diamond component not influenced by nature, and Mills considers this the most important of the 4Cs. This factor refers to the quality of the diamond's cut, not the shape or size (although these can be interchangeable), and how well the stone is faceted, proportioned, and polished. This C also determines how the diamond interacts with light, as brilliance—or the diamond's ability to return light to the eye—is measured solely by the stone's cut (color and clarity have no impact here). For any diamond shape, visually, cut is the first C to consider, followed by color, and, least importantly, clarity (as long as the diamond has no visible imperfections).
Per the GIA system, diamond cuts are graded as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor. Cut grade doesn't influence the cost as much as the other Cs, so Mills suggests always sticking within the Excellent to Very Good range for a well-cut stone that works best with light. "Any range of color and eye-clean clarity will be beautiful and super bright if the diamond is well cut," he says.
The dimension and proportion of a stone (especially for elongated shapes, such as marquise, oval, radiant, emerald, and pear) can majorly influence the look of the diamond. A good rule of thumb is to maintain a well-balanced length-to-width ratio scale, which can make the stone in your engagement ring appear larger. Elongated shapes specifically come in a variety of size ratios, determined by both cut and carat weight—but, again, make sure to stay within the Excellent to Very Good cut range for the best diamonds.
Color
Diamond colors are rated within a D to Z scale, with D meaning completely colorless (and the most expensive) and Z having a light yellow hue. According to Mills, standard diamond quality falls within the D to J color grade, and the shape of the diamond also influences its spot on the color scale. A round brilliant diamond, for example, hides color incredibly well, meaning you can go further down the scale without seeing any yellowing. However, longer diamond shapes, like oval and radiant, reveal color much more easily.
With round, emerald, and Asscher cuts, you can typically go as low as a J grade without seeing any incredibly noticeable color. On the other hand, cuts such as oval, cushion, radiant, pear, princess, marquise, and heart require quality a bit higher on the scale (G and up) so as not to see any color.
Clarity
The clarity of a diamond speaks to the number of natural imperfections, called inclusions, present in a stone and whether you can see them with the unaided eye. The GIA grading scale rates diamonds from Flawless (FL) to Included (I). However, a stone doesn't have to be at the very top of the scale—Flawless or Very Very Slightly Included (VVS)—to look perfect and inclusion-free. It's all about how eye-clean the diamond appears, and Mills says this is what usually surprises people most when viewing diamonds in person. In fact, if an SI1 (Slightly Included) clarity diamond appears perfectly eye-clean, there is no visible difference between a VVS1 (Very Very Slightly Included) clarity stone of the exact same carat, color, and cut—minus about tens of thousands of dollars.
"There is no reason, in my opinion, to go higher than VS1 [Very Slightly Included] clarity for any diamond shape except emerald or Asscher," says Mills. "For all other shapes, starting at SI1 [Slightly Included] clarity and up, you should not normally see any imperfections visible to the naked eye. Sometimes even SI2 diamonds can be very eye-clean, as well, but generally stick with SI1 and up."
To get the most out of your diamond for less, finding a balance between color and clarity is key. While that balance varies by diamond shape, you can save money without sacrificing quality by staying on the high end of the color scale, but the lower end of the clarity scale, as long as there are no visible inclusions.
Carat
Last but not least, carat refers to a measurement of the actual weight of the diamond. According to GIA, one carat converts to 0.2 grams, which is essentially the same weight as a paper clip. Naturally, the larger the carat, the more expensive the diamond. Because no two diamonds are completely identical, carat should be viewed as a guideline, since it only determines the weight of the stone as opposed to the actual size. "You can have five diamonds, let's say oval, all exactly 2.00 carats, all the same color, clarity, and cut, but they will all be slightly different sizes and shapes," Mills explains.
More specifically, diamond carat is divided into 100 points, meaning a 50-point diamond weighs 0.50 carats. However, a stone with a certain weight may actually look larger than the carat suggests due to its dimensions (measured in millimeters). You could potentially find a diamond that weighs 2.00 carats, for example, but appears closer to a 2.20-carat stone. Essentially, you're buying a stone that looks larger without the extra cost associated with a higher weight.
Shopping for a lab-grown diamond? Don't fret: The 4Cs apply to lab-created stones exactly as they do to natural diamonds, explains Ortega. "Since lab-grown diamonds have the same physical, chemical, and optical properties as natural diamonds, they are graded the same way," she shares. "Lab-grown diamonds are produced, not found, so there’s a greater percentage of high-clarity and color-graded diamonds available compared to natural ones."
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